Marguerite of Flanders
Flemish daisy
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I hadn’t planned on stepping back in time when I walked through the gates of Dijon, and yet… here I am in excellent company, alongside Marguerite of Flanders herself. From the very first moments, the magic takes hold: the costume is impeccable, the tone is spot on, and the Burgundian era seems to have forgotten to take a one-way ticket to the past.
The tour begins on Rue des Forges, in the elegant setting ofthe Hôtel Chambellan, just a stone’s throw from the Tourist Office. I love this sort of setting, where the stones still whisper secrets of family, power and grand ambitions, as if Dijon’s mansions had preserved beneath their mouldings a whiff of diplomacy, splendour and well-dressed little dramas. Marguerite welcomes me with a surprisingly modern air, and the best bit is that she doesn’t hesitate to use her sense of humour to compare her era with our own!
Very quickly, the tour winds its way through the narrow streets and grand avenues of the old town centre, and Dijon comes to life. At the Square des Ducs, Marguerite discovers the statue of her grandson and shares her impressions of the famous Philippe le Bon Tower, with that blend of nobility, surprise and frankness that makes the scene delightfully irresistible. I felt as though I were witnessing a conversation across the centuries, with the city as a discreet and mischievous witness.
Margaret of Flanders
Weeping tombs
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Then on to the Palais, at the Museum of Fine Arts, where the history of the dynasty suddenly takes on an almost playful clarity. With the help of a map and painted portraits, Marguerite sorts out the family connections between Philip the Bold, John the Fearless and Philip the Good, without giving me a moment’s respite.
The highlight of the tour is the tomb room: a sumptuous chamber, steeped in solemnity, with its gallery for musicians and its monumental Gothic fireplace. Here, one can contemplate the tombs of John the Fearless, Margaret of Bavaria and Philip the Bold in an almost theatrical atmosphere. By this stage, one is no longer merely visiting Dijon: one can hear the city’s heartbeat beneath the stone, and it still has much more to tell.
The best thing is still to come and see it all for yourselves, with Marguerite of Flanders as your guide!
A walking tour of Dijon’s historic centre. As some areas have cobbled streets or are in old quarters,access may be difficult depending on your mobility. Please check with the Tourist Office before booking.
“A captivating tour, led by the witty Marguerite of Flanders, who brings the history of the Dukes of Burgundy to life in a clear and truly engaging way.”
